Basic knowledge of woven fabrics
Traditionally, woven fabrics are made by shuttles driving the weft back and forth in the warp. In general, there is significant marginal tissue on both sides. Both the gray fabric and the finished fabric are flat. Knitted fabrics are usually cylindrical, and after opening and closing, the finished product is flat.
Woven fabrics vary greatly. How to express different specifications? Yarn density is an important indicator.
Yarn Quantity: Generally speaking, the contact person is British. The specific definition is: British yarn count: There are several 840-yard cotton yarns, usually weighing 1 pound, called British yarn count. For example, if it contains 32840 codes, it is called a 32 British count, and so on. The higher the count, the thinner the yarn.
At the same time, denier is also an indicator of fiber thickness. Unlike the British branch, the higher the fiber, the thicker the fiber. The specific definition is: fixed length 9000 meters, weight 1g = 1d, if the weight of 9000 meters long fiber is 70g, it is 70D. Changed to UK branch, 76s
Denier is often used to describe finer fibers, such as nylon, polyester, and spandex.
Density: The number of warp and weft threads per inch is called density. We have a density meter. The size in the box is 1 inch and the density is as large as we calculated.
For example: 20x 16/128x 60, that is, the warp is 20s, the weft is 16s. There are 128 warp threads and 68 weft threads per inch. It's just basic fabric. In addition, there are many more complex fabrics. The representation of the count density is correspondingly more complex.
In general, the density of the non-elastic fabric refers to the count density of the gray fabric, and the density of the finished product will also vary. The gray width of most non-elastic fabrics is 47 inches or 63 inches, while the gray width of the finished product is 44 inches or 58 inches, respectively. Taking 128 x60/20x 16 as an example, 47 "x128/44" = 136. Therefore, the finished density of this fabric should be around 136. The weft density of the finished product is basically the same before and after, up to 1-2.
In the dyeing and finishing process of woven fabric gray fabric, after layer by layer treatment, the weight will be reduced to a certain extent, so the number of yarns in the finished product is 1-2 less than that of the gray fabric. Elastic cloth generally refers to the density of the finished product.
In addition to yarn, there is an important indicator to understand the structure of woven fabrics. In general, the main points are as follows:
1. Plain, warp and weft interwoven up and down, which is the basic weaving method. Thinner, lighter and thinner plain weave fabrics are called poplin, and thicker plain weave fabrics are called canvas.
2. There are three types of twill fabrics: 2/1, 3/1 and 2/2. Several ups and downs refer to the rise and fall of the warp. 3/1 means that the warp yarn floats on three weft yarns, sinks under one weft yarn, and floats on three weft yarns. This fabric is called a yarn card or a line card.
3. Satin fabrics are generally 4/1 and 5/3. This is more complicated. As long as we understand the characteristics of this fabric surface gloss. There are more direct tributes.
4. Jacquard: done by more complex dobby looms. Generally speaking, dobby machines account for the majority, that is, dobby machines. Such as square, corduroy strips, herringbone twill strips, satin strips, small jacquard strips, etc.
5. Velvet plants, mainly corduroy and velvet. The main feature of corduroy is that the weft density is much higher than the warp density. Because the weft becomes a bundle of yarn after the opening.
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